Borigogae

The transition between summer and fall can sometimes challenge one's immunity. A Korean friend told me that when she felt ill as a child, her mother would prepare her a bowl of jook, or hot rice porridge.

This comforting dish, which is similar to Japanese okayu and Chinese congee, is the specialty at Borigogae, a tiny Flushing storefront. Eight flavors are served there; my favorite is the thick, nutty black sesame, while my sweet-toothed companion favors the sweet pumpkin. We still have yet to try the pine nut and the abalone varieties. But I have to wonder if the restorative properties lie not in the porridge, but in the very spicy, garlicky homemade pickles served on the side.

When I visited Borigogae the other day, the owner not only gave me two kinds of spicy pickles to try, but she unexpectedly gifted me with a large, greaseless scallion pancake. I was glad I had no dinner plans for that evening!

Borigogae: 40-10 Union Street, Flushing, (718) 888-1644.